Evidently it Rains in Newfoundland

There was a choice of a couple of titles for today but I’ll stick with this one as it’s the most family friendly one! Today started out wet, foggy, cloudy, drizzly and anything else that involves liquid precipitation. We had a leisurely breakfast and then set out for Grand Bank, about 350km away, to position ourselves for the ferry to St. Pierre tomorrow.

Our first stop was a quilt shop, number one error, it is closed on Tuesdays! We continued on through the wet, luckily there times when the visibility was good so we got to see our surroundings! The picture below was not taken during one of those times.

DSC05431Much like yesterday, the scenery was constantly changing although driving in the rain was a little more challenging; there was a lot of standing water on the road that would cause the car to aquaplane without warning. At the turn off from the Trans Canada highway we stopped for lunch having our now usual meal of seafood chowder or Newfoundland pea soup.

As we progressed the rain became a little more intermittent and there were signs of the clouds lifting. We decided maybe our luck was changing, so we stopped for a spot of geo-caching. It seems we are doomed not to find Newfoundland caches as this one also seemed to be missing in action.

We continued down the road a little and stopped for another cache, this time we found it!

By now the rain had stopped and there was blue sky on the horizon, maybe our luck was changing (again)? We drove beyond where our B&B was to see where we needed to go for the ferry. We found the office and decided to go in and confirm the sailing times. As soon as we mentioned our names, we knew something was wrong. We were told that the office had been trying to contact us to let us know that the ferry was cancelled due to forecast high winds. This was not good news, as it meant we had effectively wasted two days and 700km of travel as the next ferry would be in a weeks time. We were then informed that the company was going to run a “special” trip on Thursday to make up for the cancellation, this would just about fit into our plans, although it would mean a late night trip back to St. Johns on Thursday evening.

Finally we headed off to the B&B expecting the worse after our day of mishaps. We were pleasantly surprised, the house was right on the waterfront and was ….. well see the pictures below:

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Bedroom

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Bathroom (with LARGE  claw-foot bath)


.
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Sitting Area

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View From Balcony

There were two other couples staying here, one from the UK and the other from Newfoundland. We soon found ourselves sitting out on the balcony with them drinking our G&T’s. The B&B also has a restaurant, which I don’t think was open, but our host offered to cook an evening meal for all of us. A pleasant evening was had over a meal of baked cod.

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On the Rock

Continuing on from our praise of the ferry. We had a buffet dinner to complement our G&T. Buffet dinners are bad for diets! It forced me to eat salmon, beef, ham, pork cod and maybe a vegetable or two. That wasn’t too bad but then I was dragged screaming and yelling by some invisible force located at the desert table. Here I was compelled to try the apple pie and ice-cream, lemon meringue pie and some petite-fours. Lyn on the other hand seemed immune from these forces and ate quite sensibly.

We had a great nights sleep in the cabin, with a nice gentle rocking motion from the sea. We woke up at a civilised hour and went in search of breakfast. Yet again there was a buffet, but I learnt my lesson last night and stayed clear, instead we settled for coffee and a muffin.

There ferry was very quiet, with only 150 or so passengers on board out of a maximum of 750.

On leaving the ferry we took the long route up to St Johns, touring around the Avalon peninsular. Unfortunately due to some last minute changes we had to make to our routing to accommodate ferry times we have left ourselves a little short of time in the St Johns area.

The weather started off fine, but slowly degenerated into drizzle and rain, but for the most part the visibility held up and we got to see the scenery.

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View From the Passengers Seat

The roads started out OKish, but rapidly deteriorated to a gravel road, then to a rock road! It appeared that they were trying to raise the level of the road by 2 or 3 feet. At the start of this section, they had installed new culverts under the road and piled rocks on top of them to the new level of the road (the photo doesn’t do justice to the size of the bump). This brought the term “traffic calming” to a whole new level (not sure whether the pun was intended or not!), later on the whole surface was large rocks. We followed a couple of Ontario motor cyclists who were having quite a hard time negotiating the surface.

Finally we regained the surfaced road and life became easier. The scenery was constantly changing, at one stage we were driving through densely forested areas, then through rock strewn areas without a tree in sight. Then we would be following the coast along a shore road, then climb up to a cliff road. It certainly wasn’t boring.

We stopped for lunch at what was probably the only cafe for 50 miles. As we sat down the two Ontario motorcyclists came in as well. They had driven from Toronto and said that the rock road was pretty challenging!

After lunch we headed out and discovered the world of Newfoundland cabins (cottages). They seem to be placed close to the road, but otherwise in the middle of nowhere with no services. I am sure there are more picturesque places to build them, but who am I to say.

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One Cabin, One Outhouse, One pond (lake) and no trees.

We continued along the coast for a while and spotted a group of off-shore rocks
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Eventually we made it into St John’s just in time for  a wet rush hour. We checked into the hotel, only to find that they had upgraded us to a suite with a Jacuzzi, nice!

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Our Second Cruise This Year!

We woke up at a more civilised time this morning, temperature was 14C with overcast skies. We started the day with a quick geo-cache hunt for our first find in New Brunswick. Back at home I had loaded up the GPS for caches along our route, but for some reason the GPS didn’t recognise the file. Luckily my latest toy, a windows phone came to the rescue and I was able to download the data and use the phone as a GPS!

Next stop was breakfast, then we hit the road for some leisurely cruising. We stopped at a New Brunswick Information centre for some travel guides (and another cache). Very shortly after that we crossed into Nova Scotia and stopped at their travel centre for more info and another cache.

We continued on at a leisurely pace through Nova Scotia and Cape Breton to North Sydney to board the ferry to Newfoundland.
Ferry

 

View From the Passengers Seat

We were both surprised at the size of the ferry and the amenities on board, it was like a mini cruise ship. We even have an ocean view cabin! As this is a 15 hour crossing, the cabin made good sense, and its cost was not much different to a nights stay in a hotel.
Cabin

Room With a View

The only problem to date is that there is no refrigerator in the cabin to make ice for our G&T’s, a cheeky trip to the bar may be in order to try and get them to part with some. Actually a second problem has just occurred; Lyn wrote all the details of places to go into a word document and left them on her computer. Luckily we are still with in cell distance from the shore so hopefully Paul will be able to e-mail them to us.

Time for pre-dinner drinks and then food.

Well, the pre-dinner G&T was a bit if a disaster as I opened the can of tonic just a little close to the computer keyboard. After two days of travelling there were a lot of bubbles waiting to escape, and escape they did!! Hopefully I have removed them all from the computer. If there are no more entries, you know why!

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Rock Bound

We’re on the move again. As you may remember we left the trailer in California and the next leg of our tour will take us north into Oregon and Washington States. Being the brave adventurous types we are, and remembering the snow in Texas and Nevada earlier this year, we decided to give winter camping a miss and head out west in late spring.

To fill the void we decided to head out to the Rock (aka Newfoundland for the Brits). Although I have been there many times Lyn hasn’t, so here we are, on our way. As usual mucho travel is involved and we started off at 0600 today (ie EARLY for us) and headed east from Ottawa, through Montreal, past Quebec City turn right at Riviere-du-Loup, through Edmunston and Frederickton to Moncton New Brunswick. We covered the 1176 kilometres in about 11½ driving time. Once we cleared the rain as we left Ottawa we moved into sunny skies and 23°C.

We grabbed a quick sea-food dinner when we arrived at the motel, now it is time to relax for a while . Tomorrow will be an easy 476km jaunt to catch the ferry to Newfoundland. I am guessing there will be no WiFi on the ship, the next entry may be a little late in arriving.

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The End

We landed back in Ottawa at 10PM last night. Overall the flights weren’t too bad considering we were at the back of the bus!

We enjoyed the trip, and are very glad that we went. The first week was marred a little bit by weather, but even that didn’t detract too much. If the weather had been 80F + and sunny everyday, that wouldn’t have been Alaska. It was nice to be in a place, that although in America,  wasn’t too Americanised (if that makes sense).

The blogs on this trip could have been better, but at the end of a long day, fighting the internet to get more words on the blog, or correcting the ones already there, wasn’t high on my list of priorities.

It was great meeting up with Alan and Marie up in Alaska, It was just over a year ago we were visiting with them in Cornwall after we all went to their daughters wedding.

One thing that did come out of the trip, thanks mainly to our dinner companions on the cruise, and a little prodding fro Alan and Marie, Australia has now been (re)added to out bucket list.

That’s the end of this series of blogs, the next one should be in September when we head out to Newfoundland.

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Last Day

ALL Pictures are now loaded.

Our last full day here and yet again it is hot and sunny. I think the locals are prying for cooler temperatures. In celebration of the heat I even wore shorts today!

After breakfast we headed out for a quick geocache.

There's a Geocache Somewhere

There’s a Geocache Somewhere

We then tried to find a viewing area for Elemdorf Air Force Base. Unfortunately, they seem to want to keep the place secret, so I got to see nothing.

We then spent a few hours at the Alaskan Native Cultural Center. This actually turned out to be interesting and worth the visit. Alaskan natives don’t have igloos, evidently that is a Canadian thing!

 

Walrus Tusks

Walrus Tusks

Subterranean Living

Subterranean Living

Native Dancers / Drummers

Native Dancers / Drummers

Corner Post Totem

Corner Post Totem

Fish Wheel

Fish Wheel

When we finished there we did some last minute shopping and headed back to the hotel to get everything sorted out for travelling. We have the wake up call booked for 0315!!!! Hopefully we get to sleep on the plane. I’ll do a final post next week.

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Flying Low

This will be a short blog after a longish day. We headed south this morning after two nights in our cell.

Our Cell

Our Cell

 

We knew there were plenty of roadworks on the main (only) road down to anchorage so we figured it could be a longish day. In Alaska they tent to work on 5-10 mile stretches of the road at a time, and use “follow me” vehicles to escort you through. This means waits of up to 30 minutes if you are the first car to be stopped. We had that honour once.

The other unknown was the fire situation near Willow. From what little news we could glean, the road was open but “follow me” vehicles were operating over  22 mile stretch of the highway, using only one direction at a time, this could give up to an hour delay if you were #1 in the queue. As it turned out, they were still using pilot vehicles, but they were operating in both directions, so we only had a 20 minute wait. The road itself was clear, but there were still areas of smoldering brush close by.

Smoke From Fire

Smoke From Fire

 

Smoldering Brush

Smoldering Brush

On top of all that, our friends Alan & Marie had told us about a scenic flight around Mt McKinley  that they took earlier in the week. We decided to splash out and take one. This meant an extra 16 mile detour into the town of Talkeetna to get to the airport. Once there we booked the flight for an hour later. While waiting we noticed that e had parked next to a camper from Australia! They had it shipped over from Oz to s. America and had driven up to Alaska.

I was hoping to fly on a Beaver aircraft, but we finished up on an Otter.

Otter

Otter

As we went out one of the passengers asked if they could sit up front with the pilot, he said sure and 3 kids all raised there hands as volunteers. Pilot said he preferred someone over 6 ft tall (i.e. no kids). I quickly volunteered.

 

View from the Passenger Seat

View from the Passenger Seat

The flight itself was fantastic, the weather was clear and sunny. I must admit that on a couple of occasions I got very close to tapping the pilot on the shoulder and pointing out large cumulus granitus clouds (rocks) directly n front of us, as he seemed pre-occupied with looking out the side window!

Below are a series of pictures (if the internet gets its act together) from the flight. If I get bored with waiting, I’ll upload them when we get home.

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Landing

Landing

We’ll have to be up at 0330 on Friday morning for the flight home. I’ll post a final entry in the next few days and update the photos then.

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Denali

We survived the night in our cell / cabin and were up at 6AM. No breakfast around here at that time of day, so we ate a nutritious chocolate chip muffin each!

Today was the day for a bus tour around Denali National Park. To see the interior of the park you have to take a shuttle (aka school) bus tour as cars are only allowed a short way into the park.

We met up with our friends at the park  and boarded the shuttle. The trip was 66 miles each way and would last 8 hours! Much of the “road” was single track gravel with a few hair pin bends and sheer drop offs thrown in for good measure.

We evidently were lucky as we had a clear view of Mt. McKinley, which only happens, on average, 4 times in June.

Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley

We also saw a wolverine, which is a very rare sighting. It was the first time our bus driver had seen one in his 5 years at the park.

Wolverine

Wolverine

 

Other sightings included caribou, you may need to zoom in!!!!

Caribou

Caribou

as well as grizzly bears, dall sheep, a fox and  moose (including one that almost became an ex-moose as it jumped out right in front of the bus. Talking of ex-mooses (ex-meece?), the picture below shows what remains of two male moose who fought each other for dominance of the herd.

Futile Battle

Futile Battle

Their antlers got permanently locked together, and both eventually died together.

At the far end of the trip was a visitor centre where Lyn managed to spot a captured quilt.

The Ever Present Quilt

The Ever Present Quilt

I have to admit, whoever quilted it did an amazing job.

The trip back was a little quieter as many of the passengers were so exhausted by all the sight seeing they fell asleep.

Meal time tonight will be at another Princess lodge, last night was at a micro brewery, which had good food, but a noise level way above any safety limits I know.

Tomorrow we have to do battle with the wild fire, about 22 miles of the highway are affected and when it is open, traffic is led through by a pilot vehicle, so we could be held up for some time. The alternate route will add about 300 miles to the trip.

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Southbound

We had breakfast and packed up the car, then walked downtown to visit a couple more places before we left. One of the places was the Visitors and Cultural Centre which had some interesting exhibits of the different cultures of the area.

Even managed to find an aircraft in it. This aircraft was owned by the Bishop of Alaska back in the 1950’s. At the age of 29 he was the youngest Bishop in the Church, and he took up flying to get around the interior.

Flying Bishop

Flying Bishop

Outside of the centre was a memorial to the Russian and US airman who lost their lives flying from the US to Siberia via Alaska to deliver WW II aircraft to the Russians as part of the lend lease programme.

Memorial

Memorial

Also outside is a log cabin, standing in its original location, that was typical of the homes in Fairbanks in the late 1920’s.

Log Cabin

Log Cabin

From here we headed out to Jo Ann fabrics (!!) for some much needed material. After gassing up the car and coffeeing up us we headed south down the Anchorage road towards the Denali National Park. The trip was not as interesting (can’t really use the word boring up here) as other trips. The first 75% was through gently rolling hills and heavy forest.

The last part of the trip took us back in sight of the mountains and the 20,237 ft Mount McKinley, so it brought up the interest level. Mount McKinley is the highrest mountain in N. America. We checked into our “room” well more like a cell really. We are in a cabin at an RV resort, accommodation is hard to get up here unless you go for the sky high priced lodges, the cabin is probably 10ft x 15ft, but does have its own bathroom! It also has fantastic internet. As we will be out all day tomorrow, we’ll only be spending sleeping time in it anyway.

Just heard our friends managed to get past the wild fire and are now in Denali. They were lucky as the road was closed again due to smoke reducing visibility. Hopefully everything will be back to normal before we head back to Anchorage on Wednesday.

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A Day of Rest (from driving)

Last night I woke up around 2AM, which is effectively the middle of the night. Sunset was at 1230AM and Sunrise at 330AM. The picture below was taken midway between the two.

2AM View

2AM View

 

We both felt we needed a break from driving, so we worked out an itinerary that kept us in Fairbanks. Unlike the more southerly towns we had been to, Fairbanks seems way less touristy.

We headed out to a Pioneer Park which had a number of activities, including a small aviation museum. Unfortunately it didn’t open until noon, so we headed out and did a little geocaching in an adjacent park.

Carving of Local Prospector!

Carving of Local Prospector!

Totem Pole

Totem Pole

 

We headed back to look around the aviation museum, which though small was interesting. It focused primarily on Alaskan bush flying.

Aviation Museum

Aviation Museum

After walking for 3 miles or so round the park, we headed off to the airport, where I thought there may be some older aircraft. There were many DC-3’s, 4’s, and 6’s there, but most were in the wreckers yard which was a sad sight!

After lunch, we headed out to another park where got in some more walking, and a few more geocaches. By now the temperature was up in the mid to high 70’s; not what we expected in Northern Alaska.

Next stop was to get some basic shopping done, then back to the hotel to rest our feet. All in all a quiet day doing very little; it made for a pleasant day! We managed about 8 miles walking in the last two days.

 

Now back in the hotel with the A/C cranked up sipping G&T’s

Off to Denali tomorrow. We have (had / have) a bus tour booked there with our friends. We should have had an e-mail by now confirming our bus time. Lyn hadn’t received the e-mail so we checked in on-line only to find the tour had been cancelled by the company! When we originally booked, for some reason best known to the gods of the internet, we finished up with two reservations. Lyn cancelled one of them so all was good. It transpires that the company has two sections, tours and property; both sections decided to cancel one reservation each! How log can I keep this story going before I tell Marie……… don’t panic, all is resolved, we’re back on the 0730 bus.

Just heard from our friends that there is a wildfire spreading in a area north of Anchorage which has closed the road to Denali. Hopefully all will be fixed and they can make it through.

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