The End of the Road

Well maybe the title is a little dramatic, but we’ll get to that later.

Last nights hotel was an old country house that was a little on the cold side, at least in the corridors and public rooms, there was an open fire in the bar which helped, and the heater in our room made it toasty warm. The food and drinks were good!!

Navidale Hotel, Helmsdale

After breakfast we continued north on the NC500. Our first stop was at Ousdale Broch, where there were meant to be signs of 3rd century circular dwellings. Our eye-sight must be worse than we thought as we couldn’t see any!

Spot the house remains, we couldn’t!!

Having missed out on the old houses we took an unscheduled turn to a harbour at Lathertown Wheel. This appeared to be an old and little used place, and although the water in the harbour was calm, the entrance to it was very narrow with fast running water.

The harbour
Old Cottage
Interesting, if not too strong looking bridge

A few miles up the road at Lybster we found a more modern harbour. Again the harbour was calm but the entrance to it looked pretty frightening. I have to say though that the weather today was cold and VERY windy, so the sea was getting whipped up quite a bit.

Lybster Harbour
Lighthouse

Up on dry land we saw what appeared to be a new boat. My first thought was that it was a life size model from Thomas the Tank or Captain Pugwash!!

From here we went on to Duncansby Head, the furthest Nort East point of the British Mainland.

Duncansby Head Lighthouse
“Stacks” at Ducansby Heasd resembling witches hats

Everywhere we have traveled there have been sheep and lambs by the thousands. I finally managed to get some pictures.

Another thing that there has been plenty of are stone walls. There are miles upon miles of them. These walls are constructed of stone only, no mortar.

The daily view from the front, we spotted this lonely wind mill!

Heading even further north we reached Dunnet Head, the furthest north point on the mainland.

Light House and marker at Dunnet Head

Of course being this far north we had to go to John O’Groats which is the furthest north mainland village, and more famous than Dunnet Head.

Further on we came across one of many “Castles” that exist up here. I think in many cases the use of the word Castle is a little ostentatious, large mansion may have been better. Anyway the one below is the Castle of Mey, bought and restored by the late Queen Mother.

From there we headed off to our stop for the night, Thurso. Again this is a hotel rather than a B&B so no driving needed to hunt down food and drink.

A couple of things I like about this trip for the North American readers, the price of an article that you see for sale is the price you pay. All the sales taxes are built into the displayed price. For the UK readers that don’t know, in N. America the displayed prices are before tax. When you get to the checkout a further 0-15% is added to the bill, depending where you are. The other big difference, certainly up here in Northern Scotland, there is no tipping, nor any expectation of tips. Gone, for a couple of weeks at least, are the credit card machines asking whether you want to add 15, 18, 20 or 25% tip. BLISS!

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At Sea.

We had a good meal at the local Hotel last night followed by a good, country air induced, sleep.

Last Nights Accomodation – High Filelds

After a good breakfast, which included haggis we headed back into the village for our boat trip. We were a little disappointed when we were told that there were problems with the boat. However the owner found anther boat at the last moment.

Although the day was sunny and dry, it was a little windy, with the wind forecast to rise throughout the morning. It was suggested we visited the toilets (washrooms) before we left for the trip. This was the first time I had seen pictorial instructions on how to use a toilet!!!

The operator provided us with wet weather gear, which turned out to be a blessing as it was both warm and waterproof. They even gave us a waterproof bag for the phones and camera.

Once we were all kitted out we had a quick safety briefing and headed down to the boat. This beast had twin 200HP outboards and seated 12.

The trip was primarily to see dolphins, but they didn’t want to come out and play. We took a trip inland along Cromatry Firth first. Back in the oil boom days of the last century this area was a centre for oil rig construction. Now days they carry out repairs to the rigs. They also fabricate wind turbine blades and towers and ship them to the wind farms.

Oil Well in Storage
Cormorants on the Anchor Chain

The rig above floats in the sea while in use, the one beneath has 3 legs which are lowered to the sea floor to support the rig.

Althogh there were no dolphins we did manage a quick glimpse of a couple of seals, unfortunately the boat was bouncing around too much to get any pictures.

Closer into the cliffs we could see hundreds of birds that make the cliffs their home during breeding season. The birds below reminded us of penguins at first glance, but they are in fact guillemots. They are not related to the penguin, but to the puffin.

There were also a number of shags and cormorants on the cliff, the shags being a smaller version of the cormorant.

We were very thankful for the wet weather gear! The seas were moderately rough and we were in the front seats. The boat was well designed and if it were not for the wind we would have stayed dry, however the wind managed to blow a few liters of water over us!

Once back on dry land we headed off to our next destination, Helmsdale. One thing I didn’t mention yesterday was the change in land. Around Spean to Inverness the land was very rocky and barren and only able to support sheep and occasionally cattle. Once past Inverness it changed to become more arable with crops jus being planted and many bright yellow fields of mustard.

Todays view from the front seat. As you can see, the road has improved and there is now room for cars to safely pass each other!

Our next stop was the village of Dornoch, which had a 12th century Cathederal. If that not old enough for you, it was built on the site of a 6th century church!

When we entered the Cathedral there was organ music playing, I thought at first it ws recorded music, but later discovered the organist practicing. You can just see him in the bottom right of the picture below.

The whole village was full of interesting old buildings.

Next on the list was Dunrobin Castle built in 1835. The main attraction here for Lyn was the gardens, unfortunately the entrance fee for the whole tour would probably have paid for the castle (slight exaggeration!), and given the time of year the gardens would probably not have been worth touring.

We now headed to our destination in Helmsdale. We are staying at a “real” hotel, it has a bar and restaurant, so no traveling to find somewhere to eat (and drink). Below is the view from our room.

Tomorrow our destination is Thurso.

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Off to the Coast

We left Spean Bridge this morning after a final farewell to family. Below is the guest house that has been our home for the last week. It was originally built as a family home for Lyn’s Aunt, Uncle and 5 children about 60 years ago. It has since been expanded a couple of times.

One thing I haven’t mentioned about Spean, and probably the thing it is most famous for is the Caommando Memorial (Commando Memorial – Wikipedia). It was unveiled in 1952 and overlooks the training areas used by the commandos.

Today’s drive is to Cromarty, although the scenery was great as usual, it was a bit misty so the photos wouldn’t have done it justice.

We made a brief stop at Chanonry Point Lighthouse in the hope of seeing dolphins, but they didn’t want to come out and play.

We reached Cromarty, which is a small village on the coast with even smaller streets. It seems that the roads are just wide enough for 1.95 cars and they happily park on the street leaving very little room to get by. I realize this is probably quite normal for the Brits, but us Colonials are not used to this!!

Cromarty has a harbour and even a couple of oil rigs. There also seems to be an area where they load windmills onto ships to take out and “plant” in the sea for off-shore electricity generation.

General View Down to the Harbour
Close up of the Oil Rig
Boat with Wind Mill Blades Across the Back and Supports Down the Sides

We had some time to kill so we took a walk around the village. Below is an old and odd shaped tree that caught our attention. Unfortunately it doesn’t come out too clearly in the photo because the house in the background.

Tomorrow we head out to sea in the hope of seeing some dolphins (I think I said whales earlier, I may have been wrong). After that we join the NC500 proper (North Coast 500 – The ultimate road trip around the North of Scotland) with a destination of Helmsdale. Now it’s off to the pub for dinner!

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Our Final Day!

As usual, I quickly run out of titles. Today was our final full day staying in Spean Bridge. Now the younger generation have departed life has become less hectic and bed times have become earlier. I think that the alcohol consumption has also reduced!!

Today we decided to visit the Cairngorms mountain range and ski area.

On the way up we passed the Laggan Dam, which was built back in 1934 to supply water for Aluminium smelter in Fort William. Water from those dams is fed 3 miles via tunnel to another loch, and then via a 15 mile tunnel through the mountains to Fort William. Quite a feat of engineering in its day.

We continued on towards the Cairngorms with a quick stop for coffee.

Daily Random View from the Front Seat

We then had a longer unplanned stop at the Highland Folk Museum. This was an outdoor museum depicting life in the Highlands over the last two hundred years or so. I’ll just dump a whole load of pictures with captions where needed.

The first building we saw was a Blackhouse, it was stone building with a moss and turf roof. It appear animals and family shared the place.

Blackhouse
Animals Quarters
Living Area
Sleeping Area

We were then disturbed by a train! Two engines for for a single piece of freight seemed a little excessive!!

Next stop was the school, the time table was very similar to what I remember as a kid, there was also a board laying out the rules for real “joined up” writing!

In the picture below, does any one have any idea what the metal circles with the hanging hook/spike might be?

Another house was probably from the late ’40s early 50s.

Below is a table laid with a weeks worth of (rationed) food for one person for a week. Rationing following WWII was not completely finished in the UK until 1953.

Some old street signs, post box and telephone box.

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And of course the Highland Cows

Steam engines used on the farm

Sorry, this is a little rushed towards the end, it takes longer than I expected to sort the photos on a tablet rather than a laptop!

We’ve just returned from Lyn’s brothers house where we had our “last supper” in Spean Bridge. Tomorrow we head off to the east coast in preparation for a whale watching trip and the start of the NC500 drive.

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Inverness (again) and More

After another pre 8AM start we picked up our daughter and headed north to the Inverness Airport to drop her off for her flight to London. Towards the end of Loch Ness we finished up following a slow beer lorry (truck), and I got in one of my rare overtakes. It appears that no one else managed to pass the lorry as there were no cars behind us for many miles. Then heading in the opposite direction we saw a number of police cars and ambulances speeding down with blue lights and sirens going. Hopefully this wasn’t as the result of some someone trying an unsuccessful overtake.

On our return through Inverness we stopped to do our first hoarding of British Chocolate event at the local supermarket. We usually return home with a few pounds of chocolate and British biscuits (cookies) that we can’t get in Canada!

Miraculously, a craft store also appeared on our route. more “stuff” was bought!

Rather than take the main road back which runs on the west side of Loch Ness, we opted to take the smaller road on the east side. Although reasonably well maintained, this road is single track with passing places in many spots. Interesting driving

As well as the daffodils that are all over the place here, they grow wild, we found some primroses,

and some rhododendrons

In addition to plant life we spotted some Highland Coo’s (Highland Cows)

At places along the road we were quite high above Loch Ness, in the view below the Loch is in the background.

We continued down to the southern end of the Loch stopping along the way for lunch.

Cafe and general Store at Foryes
Ye Olde British Phone Box

Our next stop was Fort Augustus, the road we were on was quite high again at this point and we looked down on the town. In the foreground is the Abbey where some of Lyn’s family went to school.

We then joined up with the road from the other side at Fort Augustus. Here we caught our only sighting of the Loch Ness Monster (Nessie)

We also saw a small cruise boat transiting the locks of the Caledonian Canal. This boat was originally built in Ireland as a fishing vessel and then converted to a small cruise boat that travels around the inland waterways and the Scottish Islands.

In the lock
Leaving one lock and entering the next one

In Fort Augustus the Caledonian Canal the River Ness run alongside each other.

River Ness
Close up of an Old Bridge Across the River

From Fort Augustus we headed back to Spean Bridge. We spent a quite evening with Lyn’s brother Robert in his Chalet on the River.

UPDATE:

There was indeed an accident right behind us that closed the road in both directions for 2.5 hours. Two people injured and 1 man charged. We were lucky a) not to be involved and b) not to have been delayed, as this would have meant another missed flight for our daughter!!

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More Partying and a Little Touring

Last night was another party, this time it was for family plus friends from the village. Us being the responsible adults left around 1130PM, other members of the family hung on until 2AM or so. They looked a little fragile this morning!

The more adventurous of our family decided to go on a two hour hike along part of the Great Glen Way, hangovers and rain were not going to deter them!! The more sensible of the family, Lyn and I plus junior grandson decided on a hike of our own…… in the car!

There were a couple of back road loops that we could drive, so we did.

There are plenty of sheep around here, and it is lambing season.

Sheep and Lambs

These were not the youngest lambs we had seen, but it was the best I could do today.

Below is a general view across the same field the sheep were in, the mountains in the background are obscured by low cloud.

General View

A view in the opposite direction.

Looking in the opposite direction

All along the roadside were bright yellow gorse bushes which added some welcome color on a dreary day.

Gorse Bushes

Bringing back a previous category “View From the Front Seat”, albeit blurred from the rain, this the single-track road we were on for most of the morning

View from the Front Seat

As we came off the back road we passed Neptune’s Staircase again, and then hit a traffic jam. The majority of the bridges across the Caledonian Canal are swing bridges and this one was just opening.

Bridge about to Open
Almost Opened
The Boat that Delayed us all

The sailing boat that went through had come up from Brixham in Devon, on the South West coast of England.

Tonight “should” be quite night with a pub meal for those of us who haven’t left yet. Tomorrow we will take our daughter up to the airport so that she can fly down to London to spend time with her friend. This requires a pre-8AM start!

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Touring and Partying

Now we had the whole Canadian family gathered, it was time to do some local touring. We first headed off to Old Inverlochy Castle which was build in the 13th century. Unfortunately it is now fenced off, but in previous trips we were able to walk right through the ruins.

Next stop on the whistle stop tour was Neptunes Staircase. This is a series of 8 locks on the Caledonian Canal system wwhichere originally built in 1803. The Caledonian Canal sytem joins a series of lochs (Scottish for lakes) and effectively cuts Scotland in half from Southwest to Northeast. It allows water transport to travel from the Atlantic Ocean to the North Sea.

We stopped at the locks for coffee, and then moved on to Glenfinnan for the next stop. Up until recently Glenfinnan was famous for its memorial to the Jacobite uprising, and was erected in 1814. More info at Glenfinnan Monument – Wikipedia.

More recently Glenfinnan has become popular through the Harry Potter movies as this is where the viaduct is that the Hogwarts Express passes over.

It seems they don’t like drones flying around!

Final stop on the tour after lunch was the White Sands of Morar. These are small sandy beaches on the coast nestled between rocky outcrops.

We headed back to Spean Bridge to grab a nap before the evenings party. This was the the Aniversary day for David and Liz, and family arrived from Scotland, England, South Africa and Canada. A great night was had by all!!

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Late Night

Our daughter, Catriona, missed her connection at Heathrow so we drove up to Inverness to pick her up. The journey is about 60 miles on what they laughingly call a main road around here. In reality it is a twisty turny up hill downhill unlit 2 lane road, that is far better suited to MGB driving!!! Add to that, it was dark and raining, it was quite a trek there and back! We managed to get there and back in one piece, and made it back here by 2330.

Today we’re off sight seeing with the kids and grand kids. Hopefully we’ll have a few more photos tonight.

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Photos

I am not sure whether it is because I am using a tablet rather than the laptop to write these entries, but when I read the published article the photos look “stretched”. If that is the case for you, then it appears that clicking on the picture brings it back to normal!

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Irregular!

The posts on here for the first week or so probably won’t occur daily. This is because there will be limited traveling as we meet up with long lost family members. I’ll throw the odd post in we do anything interesting. Today we were meant to pick up our daughter from the airport at 0920, but Air Canada conspired to ensure she missed her tight connection in London. Unfortunately with only 2 daily flights this means she won’t be in until 2100 tonight.

We spent part of the day wandering around the village where Lyn was born, and then went down to the local town, Fort William. The place has changed! there is holiday traffic everywhere, meaning slow and stopped traffic everywhere! Damned tourists!!!!!

Just a couple of pictures, one of the bridge, one a view from the bridge and a view from the small railway station.

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