A Change of Plan

We’ll start off with a couple of sunset pictures from last night, unfortunately they could be better as they were taken through a salt stained window.

Going
Gone

I think the “double” sun in the top picture is caused by the angle the photo was taken through the thick glass.

We arrived in Puerto Madryn, Argentina some time before the sun (and we) rose. Although we docked at a pier, said pier was 1km long! We had originally planned another penguin viewing trip for here, but we cancelled it about a week ago as it was a 9 hour round trip, with about 7 of those hours travelling.

As it turns out, we were ok as we had our fill of penguins in the Falklands. Being the lazy type we are, we were happy to discover that there was a free shuttle along the pier, so we jumped on it. The guide on the shuttle said that the service was provided by a co-operative of tour companies and if we were interested in any of the tours…………….

As it turns out one of the tours was just right for us, a tour around town then out to a cove to see sea lions and other wild life. The tour was 2.5hours long and probably half the price of the shipboard ones.

We were put on a coach of Spanish speakers with a guide who did not speak English…. uh oh! Then another guide said she’s come with us to translate, looking better. Finally they took us off the the bus and introduced us to a young guy who was to be our guide. Off we went to his new car and started a private tour!!

We started with a tour around town

The town was founded by Welsh settlers way back when. Some of the streets still have Welsh names. There is a village about 60kms away where Welsh is still spoken. Not a good picture, but there is a statue to the Welsh women (I guess the men didn’t deserve one) along the water front, thats our little boat in the background!

The Local Church
Main Street

The city has just over 100,000 inhabitants, about 3000 of them are employed by the towns largest industry, the aluminium smelter. The raw goods are shipped in and aluminium bars are shipped out. Employees there are amongst the best paid in the town at $1000 US per month. The average wage is $300 per month. However there is free medical care, schooling and University plus some subsidised housing. The second largest industry is fish processing with exports to Europe and China, followed by tourism.

Below are a couple of murals painted after the end of the Falklands Islands war. It shows Argentinians who were evacuated from the island arriving at Puerto Mandryn. On that day, the city ran out of food.

Flags at a lookout, Welsh, Argentinian and the local indigenous tribe .

Below is a view from the lookout, behind the large caves is a bay, that’s where we went to next.

We drove for about 20 minutes on gravel roads, luxury compared to the Falklands! On the beach at the bay we were met by a number of sea lions. Most of the ones in the pictures were born in December.

Big Daddy!
Jelly Fish
Comorants nesting on the cliffs

On the way back we passed the now defunct railway station.

As we walked back along the pier (yes we walked this time) we saw a couple of guys out with a large net fishing.

On the other side of the pier there was a tractor towing a fishing boat out of the water.

Below is a “selfie” of Lyn and I. It’s actually our shadow cast on the sea.

So all in all it turned out to be a pleasant and relaxing tour. The skies are blue, the air is clear and the temperature is around 30C (86F).

Tomorrow is our last sea day, then we dock at Montevideo, Uruguay.

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Penguins, Penguins and More &**%&(* Penguins.

Well, we came to see penguins and we weren’t disappointed. We moored about 1.5 miles off Stanley in the Falkland Islands some time while it was still dark! As before, it was easier to get room service for breakfast, we ordered ours for delivery between 0700 and 0730, it arrived at 0645!

Once ready we headed down to the tender for a 20 minute ride to the dock. We were told ahead of time that the transportation wouldn’t be up to the usual standards and that there would be no A/C (AirCon) available.They were right!

Our ride for this tour was an ex- British Army 2015 Land Rover Defender. We would shortly find out why we were using this vehicle.

The scenery on the Island was quite bleak, very similar to Rannoch Moor, in the Scottish Highlands. Even the weather was similar with mist turning to thick fog at times.

We drove out of Stanley on a nice smooth road, which then transitioned to a reasonable gravel road. We pulled off this road, opened a gate and proceeded onto the moor. We were to be driving over rough land for the next hour. Our driver gave us the good news that it would smoother on this leg than on the return as we had 250litres of water in a tank in the bed behind us. This would be empty on the return allow more “bounce”.

Some non Land Rovers had problems!!

Towards the end of our bone shaking hour I saw a lot of vertical white stones in the distance on the moor. Jokingly I said, look there are the penguins. The driver said they were indeed penguins!! These penguins had climbed the cliffs and waddled about 1.5 miles in land. No one is sure why they would do this, other than to escape sea loins and otters. This particular species were Gentoo Penguins.

We continued along for another mile or two until we reached the cliff edge and met up with hundreds more penguins and some king cormorants. The king cormorants look very much like penguins from a distance, they even waddle the same BUT they can fly!

The penguins in this area were the Rockhoppers with the “fuzzy” head

The Coast Line
Two Cormorants (not King) sitting on the rocks
Rockhopper Penguins
A King Cormorant

By this time our group of seniors were ready for a restroom break, no chance we figured, given the remoteness. Wrong, the tour company had thought of this!

Not your average Porta-loo!

This is the reason we brought along the 250 litres of water….. to fill the tank for flushing and hand washing. All very modern!

Back into the Land Rover for a few more minutes to descend down to the beach. There were a few small puddles in our path.

On the beach we discovered ……… more penguins. This time there were 2 new species for us to view.

The first were the Magellanic Penguins, it may look as there is snow on the ground but these are feathers from the moulting penguins. In the first picture you can see a penguin that is in the process of moulting nearest the camera.

The second new species to us was the King penguin.

After a lunch of a delicious home made tomato soup, cheese sandwich and cookie it was time to start the journey back to Stanley. Our driver was correct, it was bumpier on the way back! We had about 10 cars, with around 30 passengers, there was only one case of car sickness, which given the ride was quite remarkable!

We arrived back in Stanley with about 30 minutes to spare for a quick walk around and a little souvenir hunting. Below are a couple of shots taken in Stanley, and one taken from the tender on the way back to the ship.

Although it was misty throughout the day there was no rain and the temperature was forecast to rise to 18C(65F), which is bordering on tropical for the Falklands.

Today is another overcast and cool say at sea, but we are assured the temperature is climbing and should be around 23C(74F) tomorrow when we arrive at Port Madryn, Argentina.

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Quiz Time

Today’s trip was a long and arduous one, think 3 hour full body massage in a Land Rover (Jeep). Today’s blog will be written tomorrow!

In the meantime I’ll post the writing on the drivers key chain and see if you can work it out, the Brits should have an unfair advantage here:

H982FKL

Clarkson pissed off more argies than Thatcher did

Clue H982FKL is a British licence plate on a car! Answers on a postcard please!!

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Unusual Conditions!

We woke up early this morning to see Cape Horn at Sun rise. Imagine our disappointment when we looked out of the cabin and saw nothing! In my mind there should have been gale force winds and heavy seas. Instead the water was as flat as a mill pond, and there wasn’t enough wind to fly a kite!

We got dressed and went out to the balcony, when we looked towards the bow we saw Cape Horn. The weather was so calm that the ship had been placed bow on to the Cape and only a few hundred yards off shore. According to the Captain, this is a very rare occurence.

Our First View of the Cape

The captain slowly rotated the boat around to give everyone a good view of the Cape. Below are a couple of pictures of the lighthouse station there. That’s what I would call an isolated posting!! The first picture is not “zoomed” so you can see how close in we were!

We were very fortunate with the weather, just a few hundred yards along the coast there was thick fog. We went anti clockwise around the island but the Iconic South Face (as the Captain called it) was fogged in.

Although we were lucky to see the views that we did, part of me was still wishing for some playful seas!

Talking of seas. Below is the view of the sea from our cabin, the plate glass on the balcony wall is blue tinted, making for a very nice sea view.

In reality, the sea is far more grey (gray) as you can see in the photo taken over the balcony.

We took a stroll around the rather cool 10C/50F promenade deck, then went back inside to warm up. It just so happened there was a towel folding demonstration. Below are some of the results!

Tomorrow we should be at the Falkland Islands for the day, off penguin hunting!

Just a note for you Alabamites:

DON’T

JUST DON’T

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Another new Country

This morning we woke up at a little more civilised hour (for us), to find the ship slowly cruising through some fairly narrow channels with snow covered mountains either side. In fact we were just about to enter the Argentinian port of Ushuaia.

With a population of 82,615 and located around 54 degrees South, Ushuaia claims the title of the Southernmost city in the world.

Approaching Ushuaia
Approaching Ushuaia

We had a leisurely breakfast and then took off for a walk around the town. For once we were tied up alongside the main pier and did not need a shuttle.

Ushuaia
You always need an Airport
Locals out for a Walk
Locals out for a Dance
Decorative side walk

We wandered around the town for a while, and even tried to find a geocache, we failed!

We headed back to the ship for lunch as we had an afternoon tour booked. We were hoping to meet a friend of ours from Ottawa who is a guide and Antarctic lecturer on a ship leaving from Ushuaia in the next day or so, but it wasn’t to be.

In the afternoon we boarded a coach to “The end of the World”. In reality “The end of the World” is the end of Argentinian Route 3, which is part of the Pan-American Highway, which runs from Fairbanks Alaska to Ushuaia Argentina.

As usual, pictures will be more interesting than my ramblings!

Our first stop was the worlds Southernmost Post Office (according to tourist info!!)

Which of course has to have the worlds Southernmost Post (Mail) box!

We then came across this family of Geese.

Interesting patterns in the Rock

There may have been a lot of Argentinian flags around, but there appears to be no pride in ownership!

I haven’t got Google Lens to identify the birds yet!

Likewise this has yet to be identified, it was on a lot of trees.

The end of the Pan American Highway marked by wooden posts

Although we are in Argentina and the ship has now left the port, we have to stop off in Port William Chile to clear Chilean authorities before we can proceed. Seems like bureaucracy at work!

Tomorrow is a sea day as we head around the Cape at sunrise (0645) and then onto the Falkland Islands for a day.

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Punta Arenas

I’ve started to run out of titles! Sometime overnight we arrived in Punta Arenas, however as we didn’t wake up until 0900 I have no idea what time that was! I say we didn’t wake up, we were actually woken up by a repair crew who told us our shower was leaking! First we had heard about it! Although we can set a “Do not disturb sign” on the panel at the door it seems crew members are not instructed in its meaning, we have been disturbed a few times.

Obviously we (our ship) are either special or dangerous as we looked out to see a Navy vessel not too far away.

Below are a few more pictures from where we are moored. Some how the view is constantly changing, as though the boat is rotating around its anchor cable.

The tiny orange boats are our lifeboats running a shore shuttle

Around lunch time we headed down to the bowels of the ship to catch the tender to go ashore. We had and afternoon trip around Punta Arenas. The temperature climbed up to 14C / 58F. So far we have had dry weather for our shore excursions, which has been a little unusual according to the locals.

Once on land we boarded our coach and off we went. Our first stop was a lookout point with a view out to sea and over the town. On the way there we passed a few murals and colourful houses

Its hard to see, but the chimney is made from blue and white ceramic tiles
Our Ship
Not sure what this is, it was a long way from us, looks alike sailing vessel (John??)
Punta Arenas
Punta Arenas

Next stop was the city square, unfortunately when it came to Spanish names and words, she fired them off at breakneck speed, so I wasn’t able to catch them. Around the square were a number of buildings owned by prominent members of early settlers, beyond that I am lost!!

Tourist Information Gazeebo!
The Front of the Palicio Sara Braun

The Side of the Palicio Sara Braun

The centre of the square has a statue honouring Hernando Magallanes, a Spanish / Portuguese explore of the 1500’s who sailed around the southern tip of south America, discovering the Magellan straight in the process.

Hernando Magallanes Statue in Town Square

Note the foot to the left of centre on the statue.

The foot is constantly being touched!
City Square
Sacred Heart Cathedral

We visited a museum which showed the history of Punta Arenas from its inception to the preent day, but filming was not allowed.

Out next stop, believe it or not, was a cemetery! Not just your ordinary church cemetery but a LARGE one. It encompasses 4 hectares / 40,00 sq. metres / 430,000 sq feet / 10 acres! It has many mausoleums as well as conventional plots in a well maintained area.

Our final stop was a “pioneer” style village, dating back to the late 1800’s, displaying original equipment and dwellings.

A new car make for me a Martini from Switzerland
Who remembers a similar torture chamber?

Of course we had to see some penguins!!

Tomorrow, we are off to Ushuaia in Argentina.

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Brrrrrrr!

We set the alarm to get up at sunrise!! We had arrived in south western Chile where there are a number of inlets and fjords along the coast. Going out onto the balcony it was obvious it was cold (5C/41F), raining and dark. We didn’t sign up for this!

The object of this rash behaviour was to view the Amalia Glacier in the Bernardo O’Higgins National Park (got to love these S. American names!)

The glacier is 3kms (1.8miles) wide where it enters the water, about 220ft thick and 32km (20miles) long. It changed from dark to light fairly quickly so we got to see more of the surrounding area. As we got closer to the glacier there were many small “icebergs” in the water, probably the largest was around 4ft x 8ft and only a foot or so above the water. We were lucky, as we were in Alaska, to see a small amount of the glacier breaking away and falling into the water. The colours in the glacier varied from blue through white to a dirty brown.

As usual, I’ll just put a few pictures up to give you an idea of what we saw.

First View (White blob in centre!)
Getting Closer
The “Ice Field”!
Larger than Average “Iceberg”
Waterfalls Along the Way
A blurry shot of part breaking off glacier

We spent the rest of the morning cruising back out of the fjords to the ocean.

Shortly we will exit the calm waters and back out into a rough Pacific Ocean for a few hours on our way to Puntas Arenas.

Somehow, today has become delayed, maybe because we went back to bed after the glacier! 1000 breakfast, 1400 lunch! After lunch we felt “obliged” to take a turn around the deck (as they say in the old movies). It was windy, cool and the ship was back to pitching and rolling. I took a couple of pictures on our way.

View from the blunt end aka Stern
View from the sharp end aka bow

There was also a fruit/vegetable carving demonstration on board by a couple of the ships chefs.

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Shake,Rattle and Roll.

The ship has been moving around a fair bit these last couple of days, making walking an interesting exercise, not is it just rolling and pitching, every so often there is a large”thump” as though a couple of ginormous sledge hammers had hit the ship. All this is to provide a further excuse for typo’s. The keyboard kept moving!

This another restful sea day, unfortunately it is quite windy and cool outside (15C/59F) , so not really Gin and Tonic on the balcony weather!

As of now, I think I have the blog sorted out and up to date with both words and pictures!

Thanks to Lyn for helping to identify some of my more glaring errors!!

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Puerto Montt

Our first tour on the cruise! Unfortunately this involved a 0615 wake up call! We were debating whether we needed to get up earlier, but then had the smart suggestion of room service! This would save us having to head down to the restaurant, find a table and wait for breakfast!

We were ferried from the boat to shore in the ships lifeboats, remind me never to be on a ship that needs to use lifeboats for real!

On shore we got on our coach and got underway towards Vicente Perez Rosales National Park, Chile’s oldest national park. Specifically we were going to Todos los Santos, known as Esmeralda Lake for its brilliant emerald colour. On our way we were lucky enought to see snow-capped Osorno volcano. Evidentally the top is often shrouded in cloud, but not today. The volcamoe is 8700ft high and is classed as dormant as it hasn’t errupted since the mid 1800’s.

Once in the National park we boarded a catarmaran for a short trip on the Emerald lake. Unfortunately the “brilliant emerald colour” described in the glossy brochures appears to be the figment of some PR guys over active imagination!

The area has a large numbe of German immigrants from the late 1800’s and there are still German schools in the area today. The architecture in places is also very German.

After our cruise within a cruise we boarded the buses again for Petrohue Falls. These falls were famous, not for their height or volume of water, but for the stunning turquoise colour of the water. Hopefully it wasn’t the same PR guy writing this brochure.

OK, they got it right!

After this stop we headed to Puerto Varas for lunch, where we had a typical Chilean meal, with a beautiful piece of fresh salmon as the main course. After lunch we had about 45 minutes free time to wander around the town and market. Lyn managed to find some items in the market that were screaming at her to take them to Canada!

The Market
Hydrangea’s

Into the town square next where a family of musicians were playing.

That was pretty much the end of the tour. We had been very lucky with the weather as the forecast was for heavy showeres all day. It wasn’t until we got to the port that the rain started.

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Nothing to Do!!!

Today was a day at sea, we could get up when we wanted and do what we wanted when we wanted!

It was a day of discovery, we had to find our way around the ship, how things worked etc.

I mentioned earlier that we had a “Medallion” , this is a small device slightly larger than a quarter that originally hung from lanyayard around our necks. This got annoying so we sprang for a couple of watch like wristbands.

This is quite an an amazing little device. All the bar orders can be made through this. At the bar we order our drinks and the barman checks his terminal and confirms I am Mr. Barry and pours the drink! This purchase is now entered into the ships accounting records. Luckily we have a “free” drinks package, which allows us 15 drinks a day up to a value of $15 per drink

It also serves as ID and automatic check-in check-out when going on shore excursions.

One of it’s functions had me worried until it was explained. Every time we got to the cabin we found that the door was unlocked, which was disconcerting! Not an issue, the door lock can sense the medallion approaching from about 10 feet away and unlocks the door automatically!

The medallion also works in conjunction with a phone app to allow us to make dinner reservations, check out the entertainment and activities etc. We can also order a drink with the app and then it will be delivered to where we are sitting! If Lyn “loses” me she can find my location on the ship, and if need be get directions to my location. We can also “message” each other. We have a “free” WiFi package each that allows us 1 device each on the internet, which are our tablets. The phones work on the ships intra net which is internal only.

Speaking of internet, the connection on board is fine, not as fast as home, but way better than many hotels we have stayed at on land, and good enough to upload pictures to the blog.

Time to rest!!!

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